Lester & Laura in Mongolia

The past five days we visited with Justin’s Mongolian host family in the small town Orkhon.  Amenities were sparse in the small home, but once again we technically had everything we needed.  We were all excited to finally meet one another and they were especially excited to spend time with Justin Brother.  The love they have for Justin was obvious from the moment they laid eyes on him.  I feel blessed for the love and support they extend to Justin. 

They were eager to see my table tennis abilities and wasted little time in getting me to the table.  I tried to hold my own but I was no match for this family.  We shared some great laughs.   Then it was time for Lester to teach them some baseball.  We had collected some mitts from our friends back home.  Baseball has not found it’s way to Mongolia yet and once the brothers figured out how to put the mitts on they actually caught on quickly.  To Lester’s delight they seemed thrilled with this new sport.  Hopefully no one gets hurt or windows broken.

When we weren’t eating enormous portions of authentic Mongolian foods they kept our days busy.   Sunday we spent at their countryside property where the cattle is kept and acres and acres of German and Russian potatoes are grown.  The panoramic view from here was breathtaking.  It’s definitely one of the most serene places I’ve ever been.  After they unloaded the live goat from the trunk of the car the son-in-laws began the process of cooking the special dish called “khorhog”.  I chose not to watch the majority of this process.  The goat meat is cooked in a large jug filled with hot rocks and potatoes over an open fire.  When all is said and done it is a pretty tasty meal.  We finished the day in the country playing volleyball where I tried to pick up some pointers to bring back home. 

Monday we took a road trip to one of the few monasteries’ not destroyed by the Russians.  The monastery is located about an hour off the paved road.  The construction and incredible detail of the buildings were impressive.  Afterwards we went to a natural spring to bottle some water and then picked berries in a nearby field.  Rain had fallen a good part of the day but I seemed to be the only one concerned about making it back out to the paved road.  By the time we headed back out the dirt roads were virtually impassable.  I can only say driving in Mongolian is not for the weak.  It had to be by the grace of God that we made it out in our mid-size sedan.  Many, many others were not as lucky.

Tuesday we went to their other countryside property where the horses are kept.  It was the day I had been waiting for!  After we were fed another enormous meal of goat, my horse was lassoed and saddled up.  The saddle is something you’d see in a museum.  Two wooden slates on either side with a thin leather covering.   Although not adjustable to my long legs I was still glad to have stirrups.  The saddle was uncomfortable to say the least.  Joined by Justin’s youngest brother Mogi and young grandson we galloped out to the river.  I can’t think of a more thrilling way to see this country.

Wednesday was our day to head back to the capital for our final days.  Apparently you want you car to look it’s best when traveling to this destination so we take the car down to the river for a car wash.  Much to my surprise, Moojig literally drove the car into the river and buckets of water are thrown at it.  It got the job done.  I left Orkhon hoping Justin’s Mongolian family knows how truly grateful I am to them.  They have a special place in my heart.  After a teary goodbye we drove away as Justin’s Mongolian mother tossed a bowl of milk to the sky, wishing us safe travels.  I left feeling so loved and so fortunate to have met them all.

A few things I’ve learned in Mongolia:

I am too tall to live in a ger (I’m embarrassed to say how many times I’ve hit my head).

Mongolian car transportation should be recognized as an extreme sport.

Apparently, traffic signs here are strictly ornamental.

I can drink more shots of vodka then I thought.

Dogs are not to be petted.

It’s all fun and games until you fall off a galloping horse.

All roads are driven as if a women in labor is being driven to the hospital.

Beer at breakfast.

Mongolians will never go direct from point A to point B.

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July 12th, 2012

Typical


Yesterday was a day of learning for me, but because of my obsessive need to understand things it was also a day of questioning for me.

The "Eternal Blue Sky" decided not to join us.  It had rained most of the night and continued into the morning.  Aside from the unpleasant odor of the wet wool covering our ger we were holding up well.  Not much to do on a raining day in Omnodelger so we decide today would be "shower day".   My excitement builds as I eagerly gather my shower necessities.  With bag in hand, I plan my shower strategy on the walk up.  For $1 I would have 20 minutes of glorious hot water.  I was confident I could work with this time restraint but there would be no time to waste.  We reach the shower house and try to wipe our mud covered shoes as best we could.  Reach for the door . . . . . . . . . . locked!  Justin mumbles "typical".  Accepting today would not be shower day after all we head to the Post Office to see if the American Foodies I had shipped ahead on June 4th had yet arrived.  We approach the door. . . . . . . . locked!  Justin again mumbles "typical".  There would be no comfort foods from home today so we head to the store to see what fresh fruit from China can be found.  I purchase a banana and plum that should be ripe by the time we leave.  There would be no fruit today (typical).  I did however score a pack of napkins that apparently are not a staple item in Mongolia and we head back to our ger.

At this point the town is basically one big mud pit and I realize my choice of comfortable footwear is an epic failure for these conditions.  Any other vacation I could quickly remedy this situation but from here, Justin reminds me, I have no choice but to make due.

We hang out in Justin's ger taking full advantage of his modern conveniences of electricity and toaster oven.  His ger starts taking in water and he positions his army of pots accordingly.  The heavy rain proves too much for our temporary ger.  A heavy flow of water in running under our flooring.  Our carpets are now saturated.  We must relocate to the town Hotel.  Justin's troops quickly get us and our belongings settled in.  We are the only guests in the hotel so we get the best room for $16 a night.  Much to my delight the hotel has running cold water.  Darr, the hotel keeper is fussing over us.  She is a delight.

As there in no set time for things here we await our call for dinner at the home of another of Justin's co-workers.   Dariim, the school training manager, was preparing a traditional Mongolian meal; goat and potato cooked in a large milk jug with hot rocks over an open fire.  I liken this to be a Mongolian BBQ.
At last a car was sent for us and when we arrive the one room house is bustling with family here for Naadam.  We are quickly seated on the couch in the living area and a monstrous amount of food is put before us.  Again we are treated far beyond what I feel deserving of.  The three of us seated comfortably on the couch while the twenty some family members huddle around the kitchen area.  The food was very good and was followed by "spirits", lots of spirits (typical).  I was taught the Mongolian tradition for drinking shots of vodka and was served a Russian beer, Velvet Fire, that was actually very good.  As if vodka and beer were not enough then the bottle of wine was opened.  Party House indeed!
Dariim and her family were fun, warm, and genuine.   Although they laughed at my Mongolian language attempts I had a wonderful time.  I left wanting to come back again and I sensed we mutually enjoyed getting to know one another.

With my rainy day coming to a satisfying end I can't help but question American expectations of things.
Are they really all necessary?

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July 10th, 2012


For the past 25 years I’ve had the pleasure of being Justin’s mother, and now I have the honor of being a guest writer.  I will attempt to do justice to his amazing collection of writings.

From an early age it was evident that Justin would spread his wings far beyond his small hometown in New Jersey.  Growing up I have watched his interests become his passions, and his passions grow worldlier with his age.  He was the sponge absorbing all the knowledge he could find and he was always eager and confident to share what he knew with the rest of us.  Through the years he has taught me so much.  Well, I guess some things never change because that all takes me to where I am today. . . 

Today, I am half way around the world in Mongolia.  A place I knew little more than nothing about a year ago, but now hold closer to my heart then I could ever have imagined.  I’ve had a year to prepare for this visit and imagine what it will be like.  Naturally, I’ve come with a few areas of concern, but mainly I’ve come with enthusiasm to meet the country I’ve been sharing my son with for the past 13 months.  I’ve come eager to meet the people I’ve gotten to know through his stories.  I’m eager to thank them, and express my gratitude for watching out for one of my most treasured gifts of life.  I’ve often wondered what will that “one” thing be that stands out and touches me the most about Mongolia.  Would it be the sheer beauty of the vast landscape or the endless blue sky?  Would it be their culture, removed from the hectic day-to-day pace I am used to, or maybe it would be the traditions of past generations that the people of this country embrace and carry on?  So with these thoughts my adventure in Mongolia began.

We had decided last minute to take the seven-hour ride to Omnodelger straight from arriving at the airport.  So, we head out in an old model Toyota Corolla;  6 adults (with luggage on laps), 1 six year old, and a breast-feeding infant.  Eventful to say the least.  Driving through the night I am anxious for daylight.  Finally, the sun rises and the beauty of this country becomes crystal clear.   My heart smiles when we stop for a heard of wild horses blocking our dirt road.  After 35 hrs of travel we finally reached our destination at 7am on Monday.   

Weary, but excited we pull into our small town from heaven that will be our home for the next 5 days.  Apparently, Justin’s team of school co-workers did not feel the town hotel was good enough for us and built Lester and I our own ger in Justin’s yard.  Large in comparison to Justin’s cozy size and equipped with everything we need.  A twin bed placed on either side, a coffee table with 2 stools sits in the middle, 2 jugs of water by the door, and large Asian style carpets line the floor.  No electric, but no matter, as we have no possessions that require it.  I chuckle at myself reflecting on how a power outage back home was always a big deal and inconvenience to me.   We were indeed set up to get the “Mongolian Experience” and felt so touched that these people would take the time and energy to welcome us this way.

People are anxious to meet us and for our first few hours we had constant visitors.  I can best describe the people in this town as genuine and kind.  Streets are busy for the Naadam Festivel.  People on horseback, motorcycles, and cars all getting about town with such urgency.  I can feel the energy all around me.  The sound of horse hoofs hitting the hard dirt roads makes me smile.

We watch the horse race, being introduced to new people, food, and drinks throughout the day.  I sense we are not here unnoticed.  My travel exhaustion tries to creep in on me but I fight it off.  Rest can come later I convince myself.

We are invited to dinner at the home of Justin’s co-worker, Chimgee and her daughter, Soni.   Chimgee is the school librarian among many other things I will learn during our visit.  The yard of the small one room house is busting with a garden of root vegetables.  We are greeted and treated beyond what I feel deserving of.  We sit around a coffee table and a spread of food and drink is quickly served.  It somehow felt both formal and relaxed.   I felt so welcome and so grateful to spend time with such warm genuine people.  We looked through family photo albums side-by-side, communicating as best we can.  Pictures truly do tell a story.  From them I was able to get an understanding of this family.  Chimgee is an amazing women that I’d love to call my friend.  She gardens, cooks, sews, quilts, scrapbooks, and makes bowls, ornaments, and jewelry from beads.   She sends me home with a few of her handcrafted gifts.  As I walk out the yard to head back to my ger I realize I had just met the Martha Stewart of Mongolia!  I smile all the way back.